Solar Panels & Charge Controllers

This post may contain affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links. There is no additional cost to you. See Affiliate Disclosure

My camping Google Docs

Ground solar panels

– add cables and an MPPT solar controller

EBL 200 watt panel

Renogy 200 watt panel

GRECELL 200 watt panel

EBL 100 watt panel

– not recommended if your trailer has a 12V fridge that uses a lot of power. 200W or more is best.

Items to connect the panels and controller to the battery:

Note: Connecting directly to the battery is better than using the trailer’s side solar port.

SAE connector method

SAE to O-ring adapter

SAE connectors – 5 pack

– cut and connect to the solar controller

SAE Polarity adapters

– If you have to reverse the polarity or want to connect two SAE cables together.

SAE cable – 10 ft

SAE to MC4 adapter

– connects SAE cable to solar panel

MC4 connector method

MC4 to O-ring adapter

– 2 ft

MC4 cables for solar controller

– cut in the middle

MC4 cable – 20 ft

If installing the solar controller inside the trailer, check out the Battery/Solar Wiring Parts page.

Solar charge controllers

Victron SmartSolar
15A / 75V MPPT

Handles up to 243 watts of solar.

Victron SmartSolar
30A / 100V MPPT

Handles up to 480 watts of solar

Victron SmartSolar
50A / 100V MPPT

Handles up to 800 watts of solar

12V roof solar panels

– If adding another solar panel/s to an existing roof solar setup, you don’t need to buy a solar controller since the trailer should already have one inside on a wall.
– Don’t bother with 100 watt panels on the trailer roof. Labor is the largest cost.
– If your trailer already has a factory solar panel, it is most likely 12V. Purchase another 12V panel (matching the wattage as close as possible) and a parallel splitter/adapter. Most are 175-200 watt from the factory.